Paperwork by the border
Carry your licence, registration document and proof of insurance. Check whether your insurer requires a green card for the countries you visit, and whether your licence needs an International Driving Permit outside your home region.
Several countries charge motorcycles for motorway use: Austria, Switzerland and Slovenia use vignettes or digital equivalents, and others levy tolls at booths. Some scenic roads, such as the Grossglockner, charge their own toll. French low-emission zones in cities such as Paris, Lyon and Grenoble require a Crit’Air sticker, including for motorcycles. Italian ZTL zones restrict access to historic centres by camera. Rules change, so check official sources before departure.
Seasons and pass status
Late May to June and September to early October are the sweet spots: towns are calmer, light is long and most passes are open. High Alpine roads often open in June and close at the first serious snow, sometimes as early as October. July and August bring heat in the valleys, afternoon storms in the mountains and crowds at the best-known towns.
Check pass status the night before and again in the morning. Keep a lower alternative route in mind for every high crossing, so a closure costs you an hour rather than a day.
Fuel, food and overnight
Fill up before every mountain stage and in rural interiors such as the Beira of Portugal or the Spanish meseta, where stations can be 60 km apart and close at lunchtime or on Sundays. Many rural pumps accept only chip-and-PIN cards; carry some cash.
Book lodging with private or covered parking, ideally inside a courtyard. Family-run guesthouses near old-town gates often welcome riders and will point you towards the evening’s best table. Arrive by late afternoon so you can walk the town in good light.
Riding together and with a pillion
Agree a stop plan before setting off and use a simple drop-off system at junctions in groups. Ride in a staggered formation on open roads and single file in towns. With a pillion, adjust preload and tyre pressures for the load, take steep cobbled streets slowly, and stop more often — passengers tire faster on twisting roads. Good stops are part of good companionship.
Compact kit list
- Waterproof layer within easy reach
- Thermal mid-layer for passes
- Earplugs for long days
- Disc lock with reminder cord
- Tyre repair kit and compact pump
- Tyre pressure gauge
- Paper map of the region as backup
- Walking shoes for town stops
- First-aid kit and high-visibility vest
- Copies of documents, stored separately
- Charging cable and power bank
- Reusable water bottle
Ride quietly through villages, keep to posted limits and never treat a historic road as a race track. Read the full FAQ or start with the heritage towns.
